Sunday in San Telmo
Despite yet another late night at the wedding – I don’t know what it is, but something about Buenos Aires seems to make me capable of functioning on a ridiculously low amount of sleep – we were up bright and early Sunday morning to make the most of our last day in Buenos Aires. We also had breakfast included in our hotel rate, and we wanted to fuel up before hitting the streets of San Telmo.
Rodolfo and I stayed at the Moreno Hotel in San Telmo, just two blocks from the Plaza de Mayo and just across the canal from Faena Hotel+Universe in Puerto Madero, the wedding location. We both agreed that while not the nicest hotel we’ve ever stayed in, it’s most certainly the nicest $90/night hotel we’ve ever stayed in, a beautifully redecorated Art Deco building with huge rooms. We even got a balcony! And that breakfast. We know how I feel about breakfast.
Checked out and filled up, we set out for what is probably the most popular Sunday destination in all of Buenos Aires: the San Telmo street fair. Running along Defensa, it’s 8 blocks of artisan crafts, leather goods, music, food and people. So very many people.
I managed to reign in my shopping urges for the most part – by this point I’d realized we had no time for serious shopping and refocused my energy on dreaming of a future Buenos Aires trip during which the main goal is to attack the boutiques of Palermo – but Rodolfo was like a kid in a candy store. He likes drawing, so he considered the caricature an investment from which he can learn some techniques.
He also laughed at this guy who had his clothes wired up so that he looked like he was being blown away by a gale. You sure can’t fault this particular street performer’s enthusiasm!
During our wander we ran into Lea, one of the other wedding guests, and she invited us to go to lunch with a group including Nathan, Abby and Kirsten. On a recommendation that I hear came from the temporarily Buenos Aires-based Ayngelina, we hit up DesNivel for yet another steak. It was packed, but Rodolfo took charged and managed to get us a table so we could enjoy a leisurely lunch with the group.
Boca Juniors vs. River Plate is some serious soccer, so we’d made sure to finish our meal in time to catch the second half. We found a cafe with a TV and settled in to watch the superclásico. Unfortunately for us, both the goals were scored in the first half, and at the final whistle the score was still 2-0 Boca.
By this point, it was 6pm, so we headed back to the hotel to kill an hour or so before heading to the airport. We had a slight panic when our flight was listed on LAN’s website as being canceled – it turned out it had been canceled but was then re-activated, but the hotel clerk told us flights are canceled all. the. time. so it’s a good idea to check yours – but everything else went off without a hitch. It won’t be another 6 years before I’m back in Buenos Aires.
More in this series:
Buenos Aires bound
Getting to know Buenos Aires
A morning in La Boca and a Buenos Aires wedding
Those people look Italian rather than Spanish in origin.
I’m a bit lost with the one of the balcony for many reasons. But mainly what the hell are all the wires.
And now I look again the town looks a bit Italian also in that area.
Haha, the view wasn’t that great (no idea what the wires were, but they’re more noticeable in the photo than they were in real life), but I was still impressed by just having a balcony.
Argentina had lots of Italian immigration, which would explain your other thoughts.
Even if you check with Lan to see if your flight is canceled, that may mean nothing. Just throwing that out there
I have a picture from like 6 years ago of a guy in a wind suit thingy like that too. I wonder if I could find it, might be the same guy. Unlikely, but you never know!
Ha, good point about the flights. I was amazed when the hotel clerk said that this is such a common problem in Buenos Aires.
Find your picture, that would be so funny if it were the same guy!
I am so happy you made it to Des Nivel, I could not let Abby go back to the US without having steak here.
Well I appreciate getting the dato – it was yummy and a fun, bustling spot for a Sunday lunch.
Yes! I used to live right down the street from the San Telmo street faire, so glad it’s still happening (and the awesome street performers are still around). Are there still dreadlocked hippies hanging out with accordions too?
Of all the time I spent in Buenos Aires I think San Telmo was my favorite place. So glad you got to enjoy it too!
Oh yes, dreadlocked hippies were there. I can’t imagine it changing much considering how popular it is, so I’m sure it’ll be just like you remember whenever you get a chance to go back and visit.
Ahhhh I met Nathan four years ago in NYC and introduced him to Andi (I think…? or was it the other way around? I forget now, it’s been awhile!). Anyway, how lovely you got to meet him, too! And Abby and I worked together at a magazine in 2005. Small Internet =)
Oh that’s so fun! I had no clue you knew Nathan, and I didn’t know you and Abby had worked together. Love connections like that – now WE just have to meet sometime!
That sounds like such a fun last day. The guy with the windswept clothes sounds like a riot – giggled at his expression in that picture. Hehe.
Even though you said it wasn’t the nicest hotel you’ve visited, your hotel room looks really nice.
Oh, it was a nice hotel, and the room was HUGE,we were just both in agreement that while we’ve stayed in more luxurious places, the price of this place made it an incredible deal.
I love that my friends all bonded!!! So cool that everyone stayed at Moreno too.
DALE BO
I think it’s very indicative of your personality that everyone you’re friends with seems to get along. Clearly we are all just THAT awesome
Ok, I’m a little disappointed that there aren’t photos of Rodolfo’s other purchases!! That was such a fun afternoon, such an excellent last day in Buenos Aires. I was so sad to go!
Haha, I’m sure if he had written this post it would have been much more focused on his thunder instrument and weird chicken toy.