La Bodeguita del Medio: following Hemingway in Cuba
Watered down mojitos, crowds of gawking tourists and cheesy salsa music. I expected nothing less at La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar where Hemingway sipped his mojitios back in the day. It’s in every guidebook and firmly on the tourist trail, but it seemed like one of those places we had to see anyway, despite the warnings.
At 4 CUC each – think of a CUC as being equivalent to a US dollar, even though the exchange rate officially screws gringos – the mojitos certainly are expensive for Cuba. But watered down? Not so much.
The tourists do arrive, packed into the tiny bar area. There’s plenty of space for sit-down diners, but if you want to belly up to the bar à la Ernest, you’ll quickly get cozy with your fellow patrons. But rather than feeling cattle car-esque, the mood is convivial and fun, with people from around the globe enjoying a highlight of their trip to Cuba.
And the music? Eco Caribe, the group playing La Bodeguita del Medio, is so good we went back. Two more times. These musicians are hugely talented as well as being really nice guys. It got to the stage where we’d spent so much time talking with the band between sets that they improvised a song about us. It. was. awesome (sadly we’d gone out without the video-capable camera that night, but we recorded this another night).
I even worked up a certain level of affection for the bartender who is a total character and has, I’m sure, seen it all before. This is, after all, a place where my request to borrow a pen got the response “to write on the wall?”
On our last night in Cuba, we decided we couldn’t leave without visiting Hemingway’s other spot, El Floridita. Supposedly this is where the author drank his daiquiris, so we of course ordered one of our own. After a week of nothing but varying combinations of rum and lemon, however, I committed what I’m sure is sacrilege by ordering a strawberry daiquiri.
That bronze guy at the end is Hemingway
The bartenders here had plenty of personality, and my heathen drink was delicious. It even came accompanied by plantain chips and air conditioning, neither of which is to be found at La Bodeguita del Medio. But while El Floridita was a nice stop, it couldn’t compete with our bar of choice.
You might wonder why we loved a tourist trap. I’m not too cool to check off the obligatory sights, but I’m also usually not lacing up my white tennies and donning my fanny pack ready to play Suzy Tourist.
Our experience at La Bodeguita del Medio reminded me that travel isn’t just about the places. It’s about the people. The place wasn’t irrelevant: we went because it’s a famous spot with a fun vibe, and even at $4 per drink, it was hardly breaking the budget.
But we went back (twice) because thanks to my husband, the most outgoing man on this planet, we had some awesome conversations with the people there. Each of the guys in the band was friendly and happy to chat with us on an individual level.
On top of that, it was interesting to talk to Cubans who’ve traveled extensively thanks to their profession. Most Cubans we talked to hadn’t left the island and understandably had preconceived notions about what the rest of the world is like whereas these musicians have personal experience in other countries to compare to their lives at home.
I’m sure plenty of people have had the typical tourist experience at La Bodeguita del Medio. They might think I’m crazy or even a sucker for raving about one of the most touristy spots in Havana. But we each only have our own experiences, and despite my hesitation, I fell in love with La Bodeguita del Medio.
More in this series:
We’re going to…
Preparing for Cuba
Snapshots from Cuba
The heart of Havana Vieja
Communist Cuba: seeing it for ourselves
Our Havana tour
Trinidad, a colonial gem
Cuba’s best beaches
Getting adventurous in Cuba
The casa particular: where to stay in Cuba
One day in Viñales
Sometimes the path is beaten for a reason — because the path is awesome.
Sounds like an absolutely amazing experience, one of those things that makes you greedy and makes you want to travel and explore and see MORE so you can have more moments like this.
I really don’t know if other people like this place as much as we did. I got the impression most people were doing the “drink a mojito at La Bodeguita del Medio…check” thing and probably didn’t go back after that, but hopefully they also had a good time while they were there!
If any tourist trap has alcohol, count me in! I think at the end of the day, it’s about the experience and what it meant to you. Looks like you had a great time!
A lot of Canadians take Cuba for granted so I like that you did this trip with gusto and were excited about it.
(Squee!)
Me, excited about Cuba? Never!
To a lot of Chileans Cuba is just another place to go to an all-inclusive resort, and I’m so glad we took a different approach. It turned out to be one of our favorite vacations, and while laying on the sand with a drink in my hand is never a bad thing, it wouldn’t have been the same.
And this is why I need to get to Cuba, Hemingway is my favourite author.
Go go go! I’m inspired to read more of his books now, The Sun Also Rises is one of my favorites.
Looks like a great time! We love Cuba. We have been to Cuba 8 times between the two of us!
Love the Havana Club, Love the Mojitos, and Love the warm people!
Wow, we’re jealous of those other 7 times! We will definitely be back – there’s so much more of the island to see.
I am dreaming of a trip to Cuba next summer with my friend who lives in the Cayman Islands (convenient entry point from America!). This post is definitely encouraging my wanderlust!
Dooooo it. Especially if it means a few days either side in the Cayman Islands, just for responsible travel purposes in case you have delays, of course
A trip to Cuba is high on my list thanks to some family heritage, and it would no doubt include a stop here:)
I’m not sure about the golf situation, but I think this would be worth foregoing a round or two.
Ay dios mío… I need to go to Cuba! Cocktails, Hemingway and Cigars? Sold!
It’s not hard to love that combination, is it?
There is nothing more fun than talking to the locals in their own language…it makes all the difference in the world. Most tourists going to Cuba stay at all inclusive resorts and never leave their hotels to see how people live. Cubans are warm and friendly and love talking to visitors about music, politics and their lives and are very curious to see how we live. I have loved visiting this wonderful country and have enjoyed talking with the Cubans. Emily, I am happy you had such a great experience and that you are thinking of going back one day. There is so much to discover in Cuba
Where is your next trip going to take you?
I think part of the reason we liked Trinidad better than Havana – I’ll get to that soon, of course – was because by definition, the tourists we met in Trinidad were more of the adventurous type. Havana gets everyone, from the locals to the tourists just passing through on their way to an all-inclusive in Varadero, so while we liked it, we didn’t meet as many like-minded travelers.
We’re headed to Colombia next!
I LOVE Trinidad. The colonial architecture, the mountain surrounding this old historical city (almost 600 years old I think) and the different plazas, cobblestone streets and colorful houses. Did you get to visit one of the sugar mills or one of the different museums? Hopefully you were able to get to the pristine beaches close by. Can’t wait to read all about it and see your pictures:)
Gimme that mojito! Seriously, I ordered one in Dublin a couple nights ago and it tasted like straight-up lime juice. Blech!
Rodolfo taught the bartenders in Trinidad to make our mojitos “Chilean style” meaning extra rum
All the new friends we’d made there were very appreciative!
You are my hero right now! I just read (yet another) historical fiction-type book about Hemmingway, and my obsession has been renewed. I can’t wait for all of your Cuba posts btw!!
Oooh, what book? And do not worry, there are many many posts to come…it’s just a question of going through all these photos and sorting out my thoughts into something reasonably coherent.
I loved this post. I am a huge Hemingway fan/freak and while I’ve visited his house in Key West, his boyhood home in suburban Chicago and his haunts in Paris I feel “unfulfilled” as I am dying to visit Cuba-Finca Vigia and Bodeguita del Medio to have a drink in his honor (although I’m sure one wouldn’t suffice in his opinion
. You did a terrific job of bringing to life the true nature of the bar. When I travel, I do try to avoid tourist traps and yet there are some places that although they have that labeling, I feel they’re too rich in history and culture to avoid. Looking forward to reading more Cuba posts.
Having just googled Finca Vigia, I’m putting it on my list for our next trip to Cuba. Except from the pictures online, I don’t so much want to visit as I want to move in. This could be a problem.
I hope you can complete your pilgrimage soon!
As travel experts, we can get so focused on avoiding “tourist traps” that we forget many are popular for a reason. We have had plenty of similar experiences, absolutely falling in love with places that, by all advice, we should have avoided because they weren’t “authentic” or were too “touristy.”
The best advice: make your own choices and create your own experiences!
Yes, I completely agree! I also agree that you shouldn’t go places just because the guidebooks tell you to – you will rarely see me at a fine art museum because it’s not usually my thing – but I think a lot of us can go too far the other way and shun all touristy suggestions.
Aww, La Bodeguita! I went there in the middle of the day and there wasn’t a whole lot going on. Looks like it was a lot of fun with the musicians.
When we showed up the first night, it had just stopped raining, and there was no one there. But a little later that tiny bar area was packed!
This place looks like heaps of fun, touristy or not!!
You guys would love it!
What a great post. I’d definitely never cross anything off my list just because it’s popular with tourists – There has to be a reason people love it.
I’m thinking of going to Cuba this Christmas so I’ll definitely put this on the list of places to visit.
That would be a very nice Christmas present to yourself!
I loved reading this! Plus, you two look adorable and awesome. I’m so glad you made it to Cuba and props to having a super outgoing husband
Making connections with unexpected people is half the adventure at least, right?
Oh for sure, but I’m not quite nice enough to make that first step. I shamelessly let Rodolfo screen people for me, and after he’s talked to them for a bit I chime in
I seriously have tears in my eyes… That’s it! Lucas and I are going to Cuba before we have babies (I’m putting it in print). I visited both of those jaunts and LOVED them. I don’t care if they are tourist or not. BTW Cuba looks good on your hubby um ummmm!
I am telling him you said that because he thought he didn’t look good in the first picture! Silly boy. And yay for going back to Cuba!
Cuba still haunts me. I seriously LOVE it (and we went there too!).
Oh no, this does not bode well for us…I was hoping the obsession might fade with time!
Just saw your Cuba posts, and I will be catching up on reading them this week. It’s a place I really want to visit soon!
Let me know if you have any questions! I can’t wait to see the pictures you’ll take there.
I’ve never been to Cuba but I’ve always had the impression that the people make ANY bar fun. With the music, the mojitos and so mojo, it doesn’t matter whether it’s designed for tourists or not – you’ll still love it.
Very true! Now, if I could just import this band and the year-round warm weather, I could set up the best bar in all of Chile…
I loved Havana and I loved La Bodeguita del Medio… when I was there there were only four more tourists so it was nearly a “typical” experience
But as I am a big Hemingway fan I would have even gone there if it would have been packed 
When we got there on the first night it was really empty because of the rain. It was nice to have a bit of space, but I preferred it once it got packed -such a fun vibe!
So it is popular with visitors and gets very crowded. Why all the labelling. You don’t really know who the tourists are. I know this though; if Paul Theroux went there, the workers behind the bar would consider him a tourist.
Travel is about having fun. As long as you respect cultures, peoples and planet who cares about the labels?
I’m talking about tourists as in travelers, visitors, non-locals, whatever you want to call them – this isn’t a judgment of tourists or a “traveler vs. tourist” debate. Paul Theroux would be a tourist in my eyes too, as were we!
Touristy places – as in places that get written up in all the guides and are on must-see lists – sadly sometimes underwhelm. I was very glad to find that wasn’t the case here.
Emily, I empathise completely with the first paragraph of your reply.
As for the second does that mean that every place you write about in your blog automatically become ‘touristy places’ by virtue of the fact they are on a travel blog? We can all be underwhelmed as you probably were if you followed the trail to my blog.
On a lighter note, I just hope the Travel Style Police don’t get you after this confession.
Google ‘Johno Gendle & Tim Part 3′ (YouTube video) if you are not easily offended and don’t mind simulated violence. It is by John Verity, Adam Gendle and Tim Warwood all Snowboarders / Videographers.
My blog is not exactly Lonely Planet, so I don’t think that a mention here will cause the hoards of tourist that come from a guidebook write up
CUBA!!! I want to go! Stupid USA passport
Someday!