A weekend jaunt to ancient Lima

When your BFF who lives thousands of miles away invites you to meet her in a culinary Mecca just a few hours from your place, you say yes. Which is how Rodolfo and I found ourselves headed to Lima for a weekend of gastronomic indulgence in wonderful company.

Huaca Pucllana ceremony

Lima isn’t my favorite city – I’ve seen the sights, and the constant grey skies get me down (see also: Bogotá). In this case, however, that was a plus because it meant we were happy to tag along on whatever touristy activities S. and B. wanted to hit without worrying about fitting in any must-sees of our own. And when your itinerary includes a leisurely stroll along the coast of ritzy Miraflores, it’s hard to complain about the planning.

Miraflores, Lima

Most of our sightseeing, however, was focused on the past. While the Incas are the most famous ancient Peruvian society – it’s kind of hard to top Machu Picchu – they aren’t the only one who’ve left their mark. The Lima culture built huacas, ceremonial sites that once were cultural centerpieces but now feel incongruous next to modern apartment buildings.

Huaca Huallamarca

We went to two huacas, Huaca Hullamarca and Huaca Pucllana. The former was, frankly, not that interesting. It’s smaller and didn’t offer a ton of information, although we did get a good laugh out of the doll/mummy hybrids scattered around to illustrate how people might have used the different spaces.


Huaca Pucllana offered guided tours, which is helpful to add a bit of context when all you’re actually looking at is a pile of grey bricks. Plus they had a garden with plants that would have been grown and animals that would have been kept back then, so that’s an automatic win in my book.


Of course, ancient sites means ancient artifacts. Next stop: Museo Larco, home to one of the most famous collections of Pre-Columbian art in the world. Get ready for pottery porn.

7 Responses to “A weekend jaunt to ancient Lima”

  1. Walker Rowe says:


    I agree with you about the weather in Lima. I can think of nothing worse that living somewhere where this is no rain and constant clouds. It would be depressing.

    Quick comment on the food. How many Peruvian restaurants are in chile? Plenty. How many Chilean restaurants are in Peru? I am not sure, but probably close to zero? This helps make the case that Chilean food, if you can say such a think exists, is bland and boring.

  2. Fabiana says:

    Sounds like a fun place. But the same happened to me in Guatemala, ater Tikal it was hrd to find another mayan site that trully caught my attention, however, even if they are not as grand, they sure hide a lot of history.

  3. Felipe says:

    Hi Emily!

    I just found about your blog and I would like to know your opinion, as you are experiencing Chile as a foreigner.

    We are a little start up located in Chile, and we are about to launch an app that allows your phone to guide you through geolocalized audio tours in Santiago. Please check out our page and give us your opinion http://bit.ly/1IZTzDO

    Do you understand the concept? Do you like the idea? Thank you so much!

  4. I have never been to Lima. It’s great to read about it on your blog. it’s like having a spy in the place before my future trip.

  5. Chile has always been on my bucket list. I have read a few of your posts and they are extremely fun and intriguing. I will be visiting your blog and dreaming.
    Dan Pavelka

  6. paper writer says:

    You know and creatively illustrate how people might have used the different spaces. Your trip to countryside was not useless, I guess. You had fun!

  7. The echoes of the ancient cultures are clearly felt literally in every place. This is also due to the peculiarities of the artifacts seen.

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